Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Tuscany, Italy

If you are planning on touring Tuscany, rent a car and buy the Red Italy Michelin guide, a must for hotel and restaurant recommendations. Tuscany is vast so make sure to plan your trip ahead of time. www.viamichelin.com is a great orientation guide and can prevent you from trawling up and down the countryside.
Remember that many restaurants close at around 2:30pm for lunch and 10:30pm for dinner so make sure to leave ample time to savor the region's delicious cuisine! Use the site http://www.internetrestaurant.it to make reservations and apart from the Red Michelin guide you can also refer to: http://www.divinacucina.com for restaurant tips in the region.

Tuscany in one week would look like this:
Two nights in Florence: Stay at the J and J hotel, Museums (see below, and Piazzale Michelangelo, S. Maria Novella pharmacy), restaurants (lunch: see recommendations below, dinner: La Garga and La Giostra)
Two nights in Siena: Stay at Locanda Montanino, have one of your meals there, try lunch in Monterrigioni at Il Pozzo, lunch or dinner at Al Chiasso dei Portici and dinner in Siena (see restaurant recommendations below)
Two nights in the Val d'Orcia: Stay at La Bandita, Boccon di Vino (Montalcino) for lunch, La Grotta (Montepulciano) for lunch, and dinner in Pienza (see recs below).

Market Day in Tuscany is usually on Thursday. Great local produce can be vacuum packed to take home with you (except meats if going to the US!)

Book in advance if you plan to go wine tasting. Many of the wineries can also arrange private or communal special cooked meals to accompany your wine tasting.

Florence:
Florence is the "Art Capital of the World" and birthplace of Michelangelo. It is impossible to list all the sites here but any Florence guides will expose the main attractions: The Gates of Paradise, Giotto's Bell Tower, Santa Croce, Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral. Spend the day at the Uffizi Galleries to see the works of Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael or Da Vinci. Palazzo Strozzi usually has fantastic exhibitions.
Please remember that if you are driving into Florence, you are only allowed to be driving in the city center on the days you check-in and check-out of your hotel - not during your in-between dates! Make sure to give your hotel your plate number so they can advise the authorities or you will receive a hefty fine.

Hotel recommendations can be found below. http://www.hoosta.com has some hip hotel recommendations in Florence (some are very affordable).

You can either fly into Florence Airport, which is about 20 minutes from the city center, or into Pisa Airport about 45 minutes away. For flights from Europe look at www.opodo.com which allows you to compare prices with the cheaper airline carriers.

Coming From...
New York:
There are direct flights from New York to Pisa on Delta and Alitalia. Pisa to Florence is about 45 minutes to 1 hour away.

London:
British Airways flies direct to Pisa from London Gatwick
Meridiana flies direct to Florence from London Gatwick
Easyjet flies direct from London Gatwick or Luton to Pisa
Ryanair has direct flights from London Stansted to Pisa

Paris:
Airfrance and Alitalia fly direct from CDG to Florence
Ryanair flies direct from Paris Beauvais to Pisa
Easyjet has direct flights from Paris Orly to Pisa

Geneva:
Flybaboo flies direct from Geneva to Florence

Hotels 5-Star:
Palazzo Magnani Feroni
Website: http://www.palazzomagnaniferoni.com
Contact: Borgo San Frediano, 5 - 50124 Florence Tel.: +39 055 23 99 544

The Westin Excelsior
Website: http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=43
Contact: Piazza Ognissanti, 3, 50123 Florence Tel: +39 055 27151

Four Seasons Hotel (just outside Florence)
Website: http://www.fourseasons.com/florence/
Contact: Borgo Pinti, 99, 50121 Florence +39 (055) 26261

The Savoy Hotel
Website: http://www.hotelsavoy.it/
Address: Piazza della Repubblica 7, 50123 Florence
Contact: reservations.savoy@roccofortecollection.com +39 055 27 35 1

Hotel Berchielli
Website: http://www.berchielli.it/
Contact: Lungarno Acciaiuoli, 14 - 50123 Florence +39055264061

Hotels 4-Star:
Hotel Lungarno
Website: http://www.lungarnohotels.com/content/01/default.asp?lng=en
Contact: Borgo San Jacopo,14 – 50125 Florence +39 055-27261

JK Place
Website: http://www.jkplace.com
Contact: Piazza S.M.Novella, 7 - Florence +39.055.2645181

Hotel Bernini Palace
Website: http://www.baglionihotels.com/pages/eng_hp_firenze.jsp
Contact: Piazza San Firenze, 29 - 50122 Florence +39 055 288621

Hotels 3-Star:
Hotel Machiavelli Palace
Website: http://www.hotelmachiavelli.it
Contact: Via dei Nazionale, 10 50123 – Florence +39 055 21 66 22

Hotel delle Nazione
http://www.hoteldellenazioniflorence.com

Hotel Palazzo Vecchio
Website: http://www.hotelpalazzovecchio.it
Contact: Via Cennini, 4 50123 Florence +39 055 212182 info@hotelpalazzovecchio.it

Restaurants (Lunch):
Gilli, Piazza della Repubblica (great for coffee, sandwiches and pastries),
Paoli (old restaurant, simple good food) ,Via dei Tavolini, 12r Tel: 055-216-215
Trattoria Sostanza, Via Porcellana 25r, Florence, Tel: 055-212-691
Beccofino, Piazza degli Scarlatti, Tel: 055-290-076
Fresocbaldi Wine Bar, Via Dei Magazzini, 4/R, Tel: 055-284-724
Angels, Via del Proconsolo, 29/31, Tel. 055-239-8762
I Due Fratelli, Via dei Cimatori 38/r, fresh sandwiches to go made with local ingredients. Open Monday to Saturday 9am till 8pm

Restaurants (Dinner):
Trattoria Garga, Via Del Moro, 48, Tel: 055-239-8898. Lively ambience in this vibrant eatery. The chicken avocado, however weird it may sound is delicious.
Il Santo Bevitore, Via Santo Spirito 66r, Tel: 055-211-264 (young ambience and great meats)
La Giostra, Borgo Pinti, 10, Tel: 055-241-341. I always order the heavenly white truffle and cheese tortellini even if truffle is not in season. The burrata that melts in your mouth, the tangy balsamic steak, rich ossobucco and hearty Florentine steak. Two lovely brothers, also the owners will make great wine recommendations and take good care of you. Copious on the house samplers are offered with a glass of prosecco before your meal.
Trattoria Cibreino, Via Dei Macci, 122r, Tel: 055-234-1100
Il Latini, Via del Palchetti 6r, Tel: 055-210-916 (touristy and loud but interesting, not recommended for vegetarians, copious meat platters)

Fashion
Fashion enthusiasts will find the best brands of Italian fashion up to 75% off in outlet malls around Florence. The major outlet malls are the following:

The Mall (35 minutes from Florence)
Designers: Agnona, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Emanuel Ungaro, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hogan, La Perla, Loro Piana, Marni, Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney, Tod's ,Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent
Address: Europa Street 8, 50060, Leccio, Reggello, Florence
Hours: Monday to Saturday 10:00am - 7:00pm; Sunday 3:00pm - 7:00pm

Fendi Outlet
Address: Pian Dell'isola street, 66/33, Rignano sull'Arno - Florence

Dolce e Gabbana Outlet
Address : Localita S. Maria Maddalena, 49, Pian dell'Isola, Rignano Sull'Arno, Florence
Hours: Monday to Saturday 9:00am-7:00pm; Sunday 10:00am-7:00pm

Prada
Includes Prada, Miu Miu and Helmut Lang clothing and accessories
Address: Levanella S.S.69, 52025, Montevarchi, Arezzo

Siena:
Siena is a great place from which to tour the surrounding Chianti region and for longer day trips.

Hotels 5-Star:
The Grand Hotel Continental
Banchi di Sopra 85, 53100 Siena - Tel: +39 0577 56011
E-mail: reservation.ghc@royaldemeure.com
Website: www.ghcs.it

Hotels 4-Star:
Il Chiostro del Carmine
Via della Diana, 4, Siena - Tel +39 0577 223476
E-mail: info@chiostrodelcarmine.com
Website: http://www.chiostrodelcarmine.com

Hotel Athena
Via P. Mascagni, 55, 53100 Siena - Tel.: +39 0577 286 313
E-mail: info@hotelathena.com
Website: http://www.hotelathena.com/

Hotels 3-Star:
Palazzo Ravizza
Pian dei Mantellini, 34 - I - 53100 Siena - Tel. +39 0577 280462
E-mail: bureau@palazzoravizza.it
Website: www.palazzoravizza.it/

Villa Scacciapensieri
Strada di Scacciapensieri, 10 - 53100 Siena, Tel. +39 0577 41441
E-mail: villasca@tin.it
Website: www.villascacciapensieri.it

Restaurants - (Lunch):
Osteria Le Logge, Via del Porrione 33, 0577 48013
Enoteca I Terzi, 7 Via dei Termini, 0577 4 4329
Da Guido, Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, 7, 0577 280042

Restaurants - (Dinner):
Antica Trattoria Papei, Piazza del Mercato 6, 0577-280-894
I Tre Cristi, Vicolo di Provenzano 1, 0577-280-608

Chianti Region:
Some more countryside rustic options from which you can take day trips to Siena and the southern countryside.

Hotels:
Le Case del Borgo (gorgeous hotel don't miss the Tuscan Mammas who cook for the guests)
52020 Duddova (Chianti), Arezzo, Tel: +39 055 991 871
http://www.lecasedelborgo.com/

La Locanda
Localita Montanino - 53017 Radda in Chianti, Siena, Tel: +39 0577 738832
E-mail: info@lalocanda.it
Website: http://www.lalocanda.it/

Hotel San Niccolo
Via Roma 16, 53017 Radda In Chianti, Siena - Tel: +39 0577 735666
E-mail: info@hotelsanniccolo.com
Website: www.hotelsanniccolo.com

Relais Vignale
Via Pianigiani, 9 - 53017 Radda in Chianti, Siena, Tel. +39 0577 738300
E-mail: vignale@vignale.it
Website: http://www.vignale.it

Hotel Le Fontanelle (Just south of Radda in Chianti)
Strada Provinciale 408, Localita Fontanelle, 53019 Pianella - Castelnuovo Berardenga
Tel. +39 0577 35751
E-mail: info@hotelfontanelle.com
Website: http://www.hotelfontanelle.com/

Relais Riserva di Fizzano
Localita Fizzano, 53011 Castellina in Chianti, Tel. +39 0577 7371
E-mail: riservadifizzano@roccadellemacie.com
Website: http://www.riservadifizzano.com

Restaurants:
Le Vigne, Podere La Vigne Est, 0577-738-640 Closed Tuesday - great restaurant overlooking the vineyards close to the town center of Radda in Chianti. Delicious Tortellini parcels
Al Chiasso dei Portici, Chiasso dei Portici 10, 0577738774 - delicious in the town center of Radda in Chianti. Pesto pici..
La Locanda, Localita Montanino - 53017 0577 738832 (see hotel listing above)

Wine Tasting:
Some of these wineries in the Chianti region allow you to reserve a place in their kitchen where they match the food to your wine samplings.

Fonterutoli: (also has great osteria on the grounds) Via Puccini 4, Loc. Fonterutoli, Castellina in Chianti, Tel: (+39) 0577 741 125 www.mazzei.it

Montevertine: Localita Montevertine, 53017 Radda in Chianti - Tel. +39 0577 73 80 09 http://www.montevertine.it

Capanelle: Localita Capannelle, 13, 53013 Gaiole in Chianti Tel +39 0577 74511 http://www.capannelle.it/

Badia a Coltibuono: Localita Badia a Coltibuono, 53013 Gaiole in Chianti Tel: +39 0577 74481 http://www.coltibuono.com

Castello Di Verrazzano: Via San Martino in Valle, 12 - Greti - 50022 Greve in Chianti
Tel: +39 055 854243 http://www.verrazzano.com

Osteria Di Passignanoo: Via Passignano, 33 Localita Badia a Passignano, 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (FI) Tel: +39 055 807 12 78 www.osteriadipassignano.com

Monteriggioni
Tiny walled hamlet, which could be a nice detour option on your way from Florence to Siena. Eat a light snack at Bar Dell Orso, Localita La Colonna, 23 Tel: 0577-305-074 or at Il Pozzo, located in the main square, Piazza Roma, 20 Tel: 0577-307-300

San Gimignano
A UNESCO World Architectural Heritage site. Beautiful medieval town famous for its towers. Day trip from Florence or Siena.

Hotels:
Hotel Santa Chiara
Via Matteotti, 15, 53037 San Gimignano Tel: +39 0577 940701
E-mail: rsc@rsc.it
Website: http://www.rsc.it/

Villa San Paolo
Strada Provinciale per Certaldo 53037 San Gimignano Tel: +39 0577 955100
E-mail: info@villasanpaolo.com
Website: http://www.villasanpaolo.com/

Hotel Relais La Collegiata
Localita' Strada n. 27 53037 - San Gimignano Tel: +39 0577 943201
E-mail: collegiata@relaischateaux.com
Website: http://www.lacollegiata.it/

Al Gelso Bianco Farm-Holiday Resort
Via di S.Appiano, 47-50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa, Tel: +39 055 8075243
E-mail: info@algelsobianco.it
Website: http://www.algelsobianco.it/

Restaurants:
Ristorante Il Pino Via S.Matteo, 102 San Gimignano Tel: 0577 940415
Dorando Vicolo dell'Oro 2 Tel: 0577-941-862
Le Vecchie Mura: via Piandornella, 15 Tel: 0577 940270
La Mangiatoia: Via Mainardi 5 Tel: 0577-941-528
You must try the Gelateria di Piazza in San Gimignano!

Wine Tasting:
Teruzzi & Puthod: Localita Casale, 19, San Gimignano Tel: 0577-940-143
Tenuta Torciano: Localita Ulignano - Via Crocetta, 18, San Gimignano Tel: +39 0577 950055 http://www.torciano.com/

Val D'Orcia Region
This is by far the most stunning part of Tuscany with the typical cypress tree-lined windy roads. I have listed 3 of the major towns here but there is plenty more to visit!

Pienza
Tiny town with beautiful views, also known as Tuscan cheese heaven. You can vacuum seal purchases of Pecorino di Pienza for legal importation to the US.

Hotels:
La Bandita
Podere La Bandita - Pienza (SI) 53026 Tel: +39 333 404 6704
E-mail: info@la-bandita.com
Website: http://www.la-bandita.com/

Il Chiostro di Pienza
Corso Rossellino, 26 - Pienza Tel +39 0578 748400
E-mail: info@relaisilchiostrodipienza.com
Website: http://www.relaisilchiostrodipienza.com/

Restaurants:
Trattoria Latte di Luna, Via San Carlo 2-4, 0578/748-606
Il Rossellino, 4 Piazza di Spagna, Pienza, 0578 749064

Montepulciano
The city is renowned for its tiny pedestrian streets, magnificent views and the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano; considered one of the greatest wines of the region. Quieter than the neighboring town of Montalcino.

Hotels:
Podere Dionora
Via Vicinale di Poggiano - Montepulciano Tel: +39 0578 717496
E-mail: info@dionora.it
Website: http://www.dionora.it/

Villa Cicolina
Via Provinciale, 11, 53045 Montepulciano Tel: 0578 758 620
E-mail: info@villacicolina.it
Website: http://www.villacicolina.it

Restaurants:
La Grotta: Tempio di San Biagio, Montepulciano Tel: 0578 757479
Be sure to check San Biagio Church across from La Grotta
Osteria La Porta: Via del Piano 1 53026, Monticchiello di Pienza, hamlet about 7 km from Montepulciano, towards Pienza Tel: 0578-755163
Ristorante ai Quattro Venti: Via san donato/piazza grande 2, Montepulciano Tel: 0578 717231
Osteria dell'Acquacheta: Via del Teatro, 22 - 53045 Montepulciano Tel. 0578 71 70 8

Wine Tasting:
Cantine Del Redi: Via di Collazzi, 5, 53045 Montepulciano Tel: 05 78 71 60 92 www.cantinadelredi.com

Poliziano: Via Fontago , 1 - 53040 - Montepulciano Stazione Tel: 05 78 738171 http://www.carlettipoliziano.com/

Avignonesi: Fattoria Le Capezzine, 53040 Valiano di Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 724304 http://www.avignonesi.it

Montalcino
Montalcino is a great little town with fantastic views. It is famous for its Brunello di Montalcino wine considered to be amongst the very best Italian wines. Its unpretentious, village atmosphere makes it a great stopover for a night or two.

Hotels:
Il Giglio
Via Soccorso Saloni, 5, 53024 Montalcino, Tel: +39 0577 846577
E-mail: info@gigliohotel.com
Website: http://www.gigliohotel.com

Hotel Vecchia Oliviera
Porta Cerbaia, Angolo via Landi, 1, 53024 Montalcino, Tel: 0577 846 028
E-mail: info@vecchiaoliviera.com
Website: http://www.vecchiaoliviera.com/

Castello Banfi: 15 minutes from Montalcino with a Michelin-star restaurant, which has another, more casual taverna and great wine tasting
Tel: +39 0577 877700
E-mail: borgo@castellobanfi.it
Website: http://www.castellobanfiilborgo.com/

Restaurants:
Ristorante Boccon Di Vino a must visit, a superb view of the Val d'Orcia and delicious plates paired with divine wines - Strada Provinciale Traversa dei Monti, 202, 53024 Montalcino
0577 848233
Il Giglio (restaurant of Il Giglio Hotel)
Re di Macchia: Via S. Saloni, 21, 53024 Montalcino Tel: 0577 846 116 (great family owned restaurant with delicious soup!)

Go to Cafe1888 Fiaschetteria Italiana for your morning coffee. Further down the main street, check out Pasticceria Mariuccia for delicious desserts.

Wine Tasting:
Poggio Antico: The restaurant at this winery outside of Montalcino, is elegant, a little expensive but very good - 53024 Montalcino, Tel: +39 0577-848044
http://www.poggioantico.com

Fattoria dei Barbi: Also has a recommended taverna
Localita Podernovi, 170 - 53024 Montalcino, Tel: 0577 841-111 http://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it

If you go to these wineries drive just 10 more minutes down the road and see the abbey of Sant Antimo.
Caparzo: Strada Provinciale del Brunello Localita Caparzo, 53024 Tel: 0577 848390 http://www.caparzo.com

Lucca
Lucca is a beautifully preserved medieval city with great stores! Lucca is between Pisa and Florence so if you are flying in and out of Pisa, Lucca could be a great stopover location.

Hotels:
Hotel Noblesse, 5-Star
Via S. Anastasio, 23 (angolo Via S. Croce) 55100 Lucca, Tel: +39 583 440275
E-mail: info@hotelnoblesse.it
Website: http://www.hotelnoblesse.it/

A Palazzo Busdraghi, 4-Star
Via Fillungo, 170 | 55100 Lucca, Tel. +39 583 950856
E-mail: info@apalazzobusdraghi.it
Website: http://www.apalazzobusdraghi.it/

Hotel Villa La Principessa, 4-Star
Via Nuova per Pisa 1616 I - 55050 Massa Pisana, Lucca, Tel: +39 0583 370037
E-mail: info@hotelprincipessa.com
Website: http://www.hotelprincipessa.com

Restaurants:
Agli Orti di Via Elisa: via Elisa 17 I - 55100 Lucca, Tel: 0583 491241
Antica Locanda dell'Angelo: via Pescheria 21 I - 55100 Lucca Tel: 0583 467711

Hideaways:
For those who just want to hideaway at a beautiful romantic location, the following hotels are also great launch pads from which to tour the region.

Locanda dell Amorosa
Localita l'Amorosa 53048 Sinalunga Tel: +39 0577 677211
E-mail: locanda@amorosa.it
Website: http://www.amorosa.it

Borgo Finocchieto - Breathtaking view of Val d' Orcia
Bibbiano, 53022 Buonconvento
E-mail: inquiries@borgofinocchieto.org
Website: http://www.borgofinocchieto.com